Friday, 1 December 2017

Fixing the 4x4 Wiring Failure

I’ve previously mentioned the attempt to pull additional cables through the flexible conduit I’d fitted to the underside of the 4x4 ended in failure.  This was more than very annoying as it meant I’d have to go back under the vehicle and remove the conduit.  It would then need to be reinstalled.  I’m getting too old, inflexible and fat to wriggle under vehicles these days.  Oh for a pit or a hoist!

So there I was wriggling around under the 4x4 cutting the plastic cable ties and endeavouring to remove the conduit.  The area was very confined which meant I needed to wear my reading glasses.  However they would fog up from all my huffing and puffing.


This is a photo of the conduit at the rear of the vehicle.  I’d removed the spare wheel to give myself some room.

Eventually I removed the conduit and laid it out on the back lawn where Jan and I attempted to pull the additional cables through using the white steel draw wire.


This didn’t work which meant I had to remove both the draw wire and the heavy cable from the conduit.  Then I inserted just the draw wire before attaching the heavy cable and four smaller cables.  Jan and I were then able to pull all the cables through the conduit.  It’s important to note that a strong wife is required for this operation


Cables installed.  There is a twin 13mm2 cable which will supply power from the 4x4 alternator to the camper trailer battery.  Two 6mm2 cables for the trailer brake controller and I added some spare twin speaker cable for a possible future trailer reversing camera.


Then it was a matter of reinstalling the conduit back under the 4x4. 


Wherever possible I routed it on top of the left longitudinal cassis member where it is protected (sandwiched) between the chassis member and the body of the vehicle.  I now need to solder the 175A Anderson Plug terminals at the rear and make a mounting bracket.

This job would have been so much easier if I had waited until the 6mm cable had been delivered rather than deciding the draw cable method would work.


Dave said...

I know its going to be a pain but i would route it under the top of the chassis member rather than above it and using cable ties to hold it in place.
The only reason for this is there is a chance that a heavy object being put in the boot bending the floor down towards the chassis member and squashing the cable? Or during use the chassis/floor flexing and reducing the gap?

I wouldn't want to get your battery cable pinched and cause a short.

Tom and Jan said...

Hi Dave, I did consider underneath and cable ties but when I'm driving some of those very rough outback tracks I can envisage the conduit being ripped off either by roots or rocks. The cable is double insulated and also inside the conduit so I believe I've opted for the better protection. But only time will tell.

Dave said...

Hi Tom

I meant like this


so its protected but not between chassis and floor
assuming the chassis rail is open

Tom and Jan said...

Yes, that is the way I would have also installed the conduit Dave, except the chassis frame is an enclosed rectangular box with a few small drain holes.